The Wallace Collection

Hertford House in Manchester Square, the former townhouse of the Seymour family, houses what is now known as ‘The Wallace Collection’. Named after Sir Richard Wallace, who built the extensive collection of treasures within, the building contains many exceptional paintings, sculptures, ceramics, furniture and arms and armour, all gifted to Britain in 1900. And it’s free to enter!

I am ashamed to say that, until this year, I had never visited the ‘best kept secret in London’, but it’s such a special place that I will be adding it to my list of favourite places to go! It would be impossible to comment on ever treasure, but as well as enjoying the beauty of the rooms, I was delighted to discover some real gems.

I spent ages standing in front of this painting of Edward V and Richard, Duke of York huddled together in the Tower of London, surrounded by sinister shadows. It is a picture I have seen many times, one of the romanticised images around the young boys’ disappearance, but I had never seen in ‘in person’ before. There were so many details to notice. The artist, Hippolyte (Paul) Delaroche, has captured a real sense of fear and tension, the little dog expectantly listening, peering at the ominous shadow appearing at the door whilst the boys pause in their reading. The cabinet pictured next to it is supposed to have belonged to Marie Antoinette, although there seems to be some doubt as to whether this is true.

This gorgeous picture of Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV, by François Boucher is also worth lingering over. The exquisite details of her gown, one shoe peeking out from under her skirts… there is so much to take in, all of which is intended to convey a message about Pompadour herself. Some analysis of the picture is offered on the Wallace Collection website.

Seeing ‘Les hasards heureux de l'escarpolette’ (The Swing) was another highlight of my visit. Much smaller than I thought it would be, it is probably Fragonard's most famous work. I was not the only person visiting the collection who spent time gazing at this one!

The Wallace Collection really is one of London’s many lesser known gems, but one which really should be at the top of everyone’s places not to be missed list!

The Wallace Collection

Hertford House,

Manchester Square,

London

W1U 3BN

The Battle of Shrewsbury 1403

I am constantly perplexed by just how much I don’t know! In my wanderings around, I try to take in and discover as much history, myth, legend and folklore about a place as I can- and there is always something new to discover. However, I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that, as a country, we neglect- or forget- many of the events which have taken place, leaving it to enthusiastic volunteers or local historians to support those interested in learning more.

So we were very surprised to learn that there was a battlefield site and an exhibition not two miles from where we were staying. Looked after by the Battlefields Trust, a volunteer run registered charity, this was the site of one the bloodiest battles fought on British soil. 

Having usurped the throne of England from his cousin Richard II in 1399, Henry Boilingbroke became King Henry IV. He achieved this with the assistance of the powerful Percy family, including Henry Percy, 1st Earl of Northumberland. However, relations between them soon deteriorated and by 1403 the Percy family were demanding payment for outstanding debts from 1399 totalling £20,000. Northumberland’s son, Henry 'Hotspur' Percy, had been given high office in Wales, where he had completed several successful campaigns against the rebellious Owain Glyndwr, in 1401 and 1402. But he now changed allegiance, forming an alliance with Glyndwr and Edward Mortimer, brother-in-law to Hotspur and son-in-law to Glyndwr. In an effort to gain support and justify their actions the Percys accused Henry of starving King Richard II to death in his castle at Pontefract.

Events swiftly led to battle with Hotspur facing the king’s army without reinforcements from Wales. This was the first time that massed troops armed with longbows faced each other on English soil, something which would be so effective in the coming decades against the French. Hotspur was killed and the might of the Percy family was broken.

Today, the battlefield remains almost wholly undeveloped agricultural land, with the Shrewsbury by-pass crossing the very southern edge along the probable line of Henry’s deployment. We intended to walk from the car park along the path to the church and then to the exhibition, but the ground was so muddy that this idea quickly lost its appeal!

We drove to Battlefield 1403, a farm shop, butchery, deli, café and exhibition just north of the site of the battlefield and walked to the Battlefield Church, which was built within a few years of the conflict on King Henry’s orders ‘for the souls of those who fell’, and is believed to sit close to the centre of the action. It is a lovely church, deeply atmospheric and calm, offering a fitting tribute to any who have fallen in battle.

Information about the key players in the conflict is presented just inside the main door and when we arrived, gentle music was playing, adding much to the atmosphere. Now maintained by the Churches Trust, much of the building seen today is the result of an extensive restoration in the 1860s, by Samuel Pountney Smith, who saved the church from ruin. It was easy to spend time here, wondering how such a peaceful place could be built on the horrors of the past.

Walk ways have been built all round the site to make it easy to follow the route of the battlefield, but the weather was very much against us so we returned to the Battlefield 1403 exhibition room. This is a smallish space, but the owners have done an excellent job of presenting as much information as possible, including fun facts for children. Apparently, Tottenham Hotspur football club is named after Harry Hotspur!

Battlefield 1403,

Upper Battlefield,

Shrewsbury

SY4 3DB

You can read about Bolingbroke Castle, birthplace of Henry IV, here.

Boscobel House and the Royal Oak

The English Civil Wars were a series of conflicts that took place in the middle of the 17th century. Fought between those loyal to King Charles I and those loyal to Parliament, the wars divided the country at all levels of society and at the heart of the conflict were fundamental questions about power and religion.

National Portrait Gallery

Charles I was executed in 1649, leaving the country without a monarch, but it was only a matter of time until his son, also called Charles, attempted to regain the throne. In 1650–51 he came out of hiding and made his first stand, but was defeated and forced to flee to safety.

Now managed by English Heritage, Boscobel House is a picturesque hunting lodge on the northern border of Shropshire where King Charles II took refuge in 1651, fleeing for his life after the Battle of Worcester. Created around 1632, Boscobel is on land which belonged to White Ladies Priory leased from the Crown by William Skeffington of Wolverhampton following the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

At 3am on the 4th September 1651, sixty Royalist soldiers arrived at White Ladies Priory. Amongst them was the 21-year-old Charles. son of Charles I, who had escaped the decisive defeat of the Royalists at the Battle of Worcester and was now in desperate need of a place to hide.

Having failed in an attempt to reach Wales, Charles headed for Boscobel House where he arrived at about 3am on Saturday 6th September. But even here he wasn’t safe from the Parliamentarian soldiers who were in pursuit. So he and another fugitive, William Careless, hid in a great oak in the grounds of the house from where they watched the soldiers who were searching the estate.

English Heritage have done a wonderful job of making this story come alive! Placing your ‘candle’ in certain places around the house activates various effects, offering an immersive and entertaining experience. Add to this knowledgeable room guides and the natural atmosphere of this old house and grounds and the past seems very present. There is certainly plenty to discover here.

At the top of the house, in the attic, is a priest’s hole, thought to be where Charles hid after leaving the tree. Gazing down through the glass covering, I wondered about this young man- and others who hid here- terrified of being caught, huddled in this tiny space at the mercy of chance and the loyalty of those around him and then my thoughts drifted to the ‘ordinary’ people whose lives were shattered by these national events which had so little to do with them- and sadly, how little things have changed.

A second hidden chamber can be seen on the first floor, but there is some doubt as to whether this is original or a later addition. The Royal Oak in which Charles found refuge no longer stands; however, a tree thought to be a descendant of the original Royal Oak stands in the grounds, accompanied by information charting the tree’s history.

With a Victorian farmyard, a 17th century garden, play area and lovely tea room, there is plenty here in addition to all the history to keep visitors entertained and happy for hours.

Boscobel House,

Brewood,

Bishop's Wood,

Stafford

ST19 9AR

Clifford’s Tower, York

York is one of my favourite cities in the world. Much like London, history calls to you from every corner and its connections with Richard III make it somewhere which, although it is not near home, I visit as often as possible.

Already an ancient place of settlement, the Romans founded York around 71 AD and some of the remains of their city walls can still be seen and much has been made of the city’s settlement by the Vikings with the wonderful Jorvik Centre which allows you to experience ‘the Sights, Sounds and Smells of Our Reconstruction of the Viking City’.

Clifford’s Tower stands high on a grassy knoll, looking down across the city. Previously, a timber tower , built to subdue the rebellious north by William the Conqueror, the now imposing ruin has been here since 1245. The wooden structure was burned down in 1190, after York's Jewish community was besieged there by a mob and committed mass suicide rather than being murdered or forcibly baptised by the attackers. This terrible event- ‘one of the worst anti-Semitic massacres of the Middle Ages’- is now acknowledged on a plaque, installed at the foot of the tower in 1978.  

Originally simply known as the King’s Tower, the first recorded use of 'Clifford's Tower' is not used until 1596.  The name may be a reference to the fact that Roger de Clifford was hanged at the tower in 1322 for opposing Edward II.

When I first visited, many years ago, Clifford’s Tower was a roofless ruin. Although there were amazing views across the city, it all felt a bit precarious! However, in 2020, City of York Council granted English Heritage, who manage the site, planning permission to enable conservation and improvements to visitor infrastructure, resulting in a completely new experience. A timber structure has been installed which partially covers the ruin, providing a fantastic viewing and activity space at the roof level whilst suspended metal walkways give access to previously unseen features at first floor level.

The result is quite breath taking, allowing visitors to explore more of the tower and, of course, to enjoy wonderful 360 degree views across the city. Plenty of information boards offer details about the building’s history and, for those who are truly interested, it is easy to spend quite some time here, learning about the role of the tower in York’s history and enjoying the views.

One of the many treasures of York!

Clifford’s Tower,

Tower St,

York

YO1 9SA

Bolingbroke Castle

Old Bolingbroke is a quiet village in Lincolnshire, near Spilsby, once an important gateway to the Wolds from the Fens.

The village church of St Peter and St Paul has existed on its site continuously for nearly a thousand years. Interesting graffiti, left by Medieval visitors, including mason’s marks, font inscriptions and marks to discourage demons from entering the church, is worth looking for and there is information around the church to guide your search. It was probably here that the future Henry IV, son of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and Blanche of Lancaster was christened shortly after his birth. According to the church website, the font dates from this era and may have been used for this ceremony.

Henry was born at Bolingbroke Castle in 1367. It was built around 1220 by Randulph de Blundevill, Earl of Lincoln and after his death, the castle remained in the ownership of the Earls of Lincoln and was later inherited through marriage by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, who became the guardian of Richard II when, at the age of 10, the young king succeeded to the throne.

All that remains of this castle today are ruins. During the Civil War of 1642–1648, the castle became base for a Royalist garrison and was besieged by Parliamentarian forces in 1643. The Royalists surrendered that winter, and the entire castle was destroyed. 

The site is now managed by English Heritage. Open to the public at ‘any reasonable time during daylight hours’, there is a very small car park on Moat Lane with space for two or three cars. Both entrances offer wheelchair access, but the ground is very uneven and when we visited, very wet, which would not make manoeuvring a chair easy. Notice boards offer plenty of information about the site so even those visiting with no knowledge of the periods or peoples involved will gain an understanding of the events which took place here.

Wandering about this site, I wondered about Henry IV. Not one of my favourite monarchs, I know far less about him than I do about his father, John of Gaunt or John’s third wife, Katherine Swynford from all the historical fiction I read when much younger. Both of these are fascinating people, but Henry has never really appealed to me, although I like his cousin and predecessor on the throne, Richard II, even less! Still, visiting his birthplace has made me determined to find out more about him- perhaps starting with Ian Mortimer’s ‘The Fears of Henry IV: The Life of England's Self-Made King’.

The castle is a beautifully peaceful spot- the only other visitors were leaving as we arrived- and it is easy to see why they would have chosen to build a castle here. Using the information boards as a guide, it is easy to imagine the ruins as they once were and spend as much time as you like, wandering around, soaking up the atmosphere and reflecting on the past.

Henry IV is buried with his second wife, Joan of Navarre, at Canterbury Cathedral, near the Shrine of St Thomas a Becket, the only tomb of a monarch in the cathedral.

Bolingbroke Castle,

Moat Lane,

Old Bolingbroke,

Spilsby,

Lincolnshire PE23 4HH

Chenies Manor

Chenies is a village in south Buckinghamshire, near the border with Hertfordshire and to the east of Chesham and the Chalfonts. Until the 13th century, the village name was Isenhampstead and the two villages here were called Isenhampstead Chenies and Isenhampstead Latimers, distinguished by the lords of those manors. In the 19th century the prefix was dropped and the two villages became known as Chenies and Latimer.

Near the village there was once a royal hunting-box, where both King Edward I and King Edward II were known to have resided. It was the owner of this lodge, Edward III's shield bearer, Thomas Cheyne, who first gave his name to the village and his descendant, Sir John Cheyne, who built Chenies Manor House on the site in around 1460.

With original Medieval sections and an L-shaped Tudor house of brick, Chenies Manor is a very beautiful place to visit. Still a family home, it has an incredible history and captured my imagination when I first visited as a child. However, it is the house’s link to Catherine Howard, fifth wife of Henry VIII which was the inspiration for my most recent visit.

I have always felt great sympathy for all the wives of Henry VIII. From a very young child, I was greatly annoyed by the way he was allowed to treat them, but it was the fate of Anne Boleyn and her cousin, Catherine Howard, which upset me the most. Anne Boleyn has many champions, but Catherine Howard, only about 17 when married to the 49 year old Henry, seems to have been written off as a silly little tart who deserved everything she got. More recently however, some historians are revising this opinion and looking more closely at the factors surrounding her life and her ‘fall from grace’.

Having already visited Chenies several times including with Anne Boleyn in 1534, Henry VIII and Catherine Howard visited the manor in 1541 and it is claimed that Henry's limping footsteps- he was suffering from an ulcerated leg at the time- can still be heard echoing down the corridor to the room that Catherine occupied during her stay. The house was mentioned in the evidence produced against her as somewhere she had committed adultery with Thomas Culpepper and, walking through the house, I found myself wondering about the young queen, how history has maligned her and how she must have felt being married to such a man.

Visitors are taken around the house by very knowledgeable guides who give a colourful and detailed history, yet, to my surprise, Catherine Howard was only mentioned in passing. Apart from this, there is much to see and enjoy, including a priest hole. The gardens, which you can wander a will, are beautiful and well worth exploring.

The house has been used as a location in a number of film and television productions, including the (in my opinion, awful!) Netflix version of Jane Austen’s ‘Persuasion’, where its interior was used as part of a cottage at Uppercross.

St Michael’s Church is just by the manor and is famous for the Bedford Chapel. Although this is not open to the public, it is possible to look in through glass doors and see the collection of monuments to members of the Russell family. It’s slightly eerie to see all these recumbent figures who almost seem to move if you catch them out of the corner of your eye, but there’s no doubting the grandeur of those lying here.

Perfect for a lovely day out, Chenies Manor is only open on certain days throughout the year from 2-5pm. As a member of Historic Houses, my visit was free, but tickets for the house and garden are only £12- a bargain in my opinion!

Chenies Manor,

Chenies,

Rickmansworth WD3 6ER