Cooling Churchyard, Kent
Dramatically desolate and bleak, particularly in winter, St James’ Church in the village of Cooling provided inspiration for the opening setting of ‘Great Expectations’ when Pip, meets the convict, Magwitch. Little changed since Dickens’ day, it is a place he would have been very familiar with.
Pip stands over the graves of his parents and ‘the five little stone lozenges…which were arranged in a neat row beside their grave’. The graves in the churchyard are of children from the Baker and Comport families who died between 1771-79, their ages ranging from one to seventeen months, forming a deeply poignant reminder of the infant mortality rate at this time. Now known as ‘Pip’s Graves’, they are thought to have inspired Dickens when he wrote the dramatic scene to what he himself regarded as one of the best of his books. I last visited, early in the morning, on a wintery day with a bitter wind howling across the fields- not hard to imagine little Pip and his encounter with Magwitch!
To my surprise - and delight- the church was open. No longer in use, but looked after by The Friends of Cooling Church, the building is surprisingly light and full of interest. The square font dates from about 1200 and ancient medieval seats can be seen in the corner.
The village also boasts the remains of Cooling Castle. Built in the 1380s by the Cobham family, it was badly damaged in January 1554 when it was stormed by Sir Thomas Wyatt because the owner, Lord George Cobham, would not support his rebellion against Queen Mary. It was subsequently abandoned and allowed to fall into disrepair, but is now owned by Jools Holland.
