Fortfield Terrace, Sidmouth
Sidmouth, located in East Devon, is a charming seaside town, nestled beneath dramatic red cliffs. Queen Victoria herself spent holidays here as a child and families have been following her example for generations. Although the day I visited was a bit blustery and overcast, there were still a few brave (or mad!) souls who ventured into the water for a swim!
One person who came to the town for the sea bathing was Elizabeth Barrett. Her father brought the family (11 children and their father-Mrs. Barrett had died in 1828) to Sidmouth in 1832 and rented Number 8, Fortfield Terrace (just to the left in the picture at the top and surrounded by scaffolding at the time- hence the lack of photo). Known at the time as Raferel House, the house has views down to the sea, which she praised in a letter written soon after her arrival. Aged 26, her health was already weakening and her family hoped the sea air might do her good.
It was in Sidmouth that she composed poems as well as completing her initial translation of ‘Prometheus Bound’. One of her poems, ‘The Sea Side Walk’, is considered to have been set in the town.
We walked beside the sea,
After a day which perished silently
Of its own glory- liek the Princess weird
Who, combatting the Genius, scorched and seared,
uttered with burning breath, ‘Ho! victory!’
And sank adown, an heap of ashes pale;
So runs the Arab tale.
After living for three years in several rented houses in the coastal town, the Barretts moved in 1835 to London, which was to remain their permanent place of residence. Here, she made a name for herself as a poet and in 1845, she received the first of many letters from Robert Browning. During this time, she was composing the poems later to be named ‘Sonnets from the Portuguese’ which includes, ‘How do I love thee?’. Mr Barrett objected to the match; however, a clandestine marriage ceremony took place on September 12, 1846 at St. Marylebone Parish Church, which was not far from the Barretts’ house… but more on this in another post!